The Truth About Japanese Hair Straightening

Have wavy hair but long for super straight hair instead? Japanese hair straightening offers a longer term option to keep locks sleek and straight. See if it's the right option for you.

Japanese hair straightening is a popular method of straightening hair that is wavy or curly to start with and helps transform it into hair that is pin straight, sleek and shiny.

However, it does not come without its critics! Rule number one is to find an experienced stylist.

Take the time to ask others for recommendations and do your research online, asking as many questions as you need before deciding which stylist to choose.

The consultation for this process is the most important part and if you are in any doubt about the process or the capabilities of the stylist, do not go through with it. It can be tempting to find the cheapest salon around, but ensure that you opt for the most experienced in this particular technique. An inexperienced stylist can leave your locks damaged and the process is permanent.

Another really important point to consider is how sure you are that you want straight hair for the long run. The process is often hard to reverse and either needs topping up regularly (approximately every six months) or growing out.

These options are either expensive or lengthy processes. You need to be positive that you want a more permanent solution to your curly, wavy or frizzy hair.

If you want to ditch the straightening irons and cut some time off your morning routine, this could be the route for you.

So what exactly is Japanese hair straightening?

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It’s a revolutionary technique that originated in Japan and is also known as thermal reconditioning. Its popularity spread to American cities from the year 2000 and was often branded as a miracle cure and a relatively quick and easy process to transform your hair from curly to straight.

The movement spread across the globe, before Brazilian hair straightening (using keratine) became the new trend instead. However, reports that a carcinogen (formaldehyde) was used in the Brazilian method meant that the popularity of that treatment decreased and Japanese hair straightening is still the number one choice for many people.

It was often chosen by women with hair that is hard to manage (e.g. frizzy). The process uses a combination of chemicals and heat to get the desired effect.

How does the process work?

Japanese Hair Straightening uses a solution that breaks down the natural hair bonds that create its shape (curly etc).

The method is to saturate the hair with the solution. The stylist will ensure that the solution is carefully applied through the lengths of the hair strands and left to work in to the hair. It will then be carefully and fully rinsed out, dried with a hair dryer and straightened carefully and meticulously with ceramic straightening irons.

To finish and hold the treatment in place, a neutralizer is added. It can take up to seven hours on the first visit and up to four hours for touch ups, depending on your hair length. There is also usually a lengthy consultation process, where the stylist will talk through your ‘hair history’ and determine whether the treatment is right for you.

How long does the treatment last?

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Treatments will last about 6 months although this depends on your natural hair type. Six months is twice as long as the Brazilian straightening method which again makes it a more popular option.

The cost can vary from salon to salon but the treatment will either need to be repeated or grown out, so while it may help your hair be lower maintenance on a day to day basis, it can add lots of time and cost to your salon visits. The treatment is called permanent as it cannot be reversed.

Can Japanese hair straightening damage hair?

Many of the main salon chains do not offer Japanese hair straightening because it is a difficult technique to do without damaging the hair. With an inexperienced salon, it can potentially cause awful results including hair falling out or being fried, dried and frazzled beyond repair.

This is especially common on overly colored/bleached hair or chemically treated hair. If you want the treatment, discuss your hair history with the stylist who will be able to advise you whether your hair condition is right for it. It’s best not to leave an information out at this stage because if you have had your hair colored, they will need to be aware.

Some salons will refuse to treat you if your hair is already over processed and some bleaches or henna do not react well with the thermal reconditioning solutions and can have a reaction.

The relaxer that beaks the bond can be very harsh, especially on weakened and colored hair. If you don’t feel that your hair is in good condition, give it another 6-12 months color free and really work to build the condition of your hair up.

You can do this by altering your diet (plenty of omega 3 oils), regular exercise, plenty of sleep and with some deep conditioning treatments and less heat applied to the hair. The main advise is that the Japanese hair straightening treatment can be applied to hair that is less than 50% highlighted, but if in doubt ask for advice.

Some salons and stylists specialize in this treatment and repeat it over and over – these are your safest choice. Experience is important because you don’t want your hair damaged. The treatment is permanent and therefore can be harsh and strong. It can’t be reversed, so you need to consider it carefully, as growing your hair out can be a lengthy process if you want those natural waves back.

After Care Tips

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If you decide to give the treatment a go, the after-care is hugely important. You have to be very careful with the condition of your hair. It will be fragile for some time. For the three days following the treatment, do not wash the hair, apply any heat or style it. Avoid putting it into a ponytail or braid for at least three days while the hair is setting in place.

Once you leave the salon, it continues to set and the first few days are crucial. The results can be fantastic and stay for six months without any waves or kinks which is ideal for those of you who have desired pin straight hair.

Once you’ve had the treatment you can keep your straightening and curling irons away for a while as the hair does not need straightening and will not take curls. It is very low maintenance on a daily basis, which is perfect if you are prone to wanting a few extra minutes in bed and rushing to leave the house in the morning or before heading out for the evening!

Japanese hair straightening is not for everyone and some stylists will refuse to do it completely, but for those of you who know that you want your hair straight day in, day out but were born with curls, this is the perfect treatment.

Have you had Japanese hair straightening treatments applied to your hair? Would you recommend them? Share your experiences with You Queen readers by commenting below. We would love to hear your thoughts, the pros and the cons.

About the author

Rachel A.

Welsh Journalism graduate and full-time writer Rachel has a love of words! A workaholic with champagne desire on a lemonade budget, Rachel is most at home with her laptop on her knee and a cup of tea close by.

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  • Stylist unevenly applied chemicals. So half of my hair was permed, I didn’t go back to that stylist but I wore my hair straight for 1 year, but it would always take God with the natural patch so I shaved it all off! What a relief, start over. The straightener was good when it worked!